Our Top 5 Tips for Working with Coloured Lash Extensions
Coloured lash extensions have become a staple in the beauty industry, offering a fun, versatile way to elevate any lash look—from subtle pops of color for everyday wear to bold, vibrant designs for special occasions. Whether you’re a seasoned lash technician looking to expand your service menu or a beginner eager to master the art of colored lashes, navigating the world of hued filaments can come with unique challenges. From selecting the right shades to ensuring long-lasting adhesion and seamless blending, every step matters. To help you achieve stunning, client-pleasing results, KOLYBEL have rounded up our top 5 expert tips for working with coloured lash extensions. Let’s dive in!
Tip 1: Master Shade Selection Based on Client Needs & Undertones
1.1 Understand the Difference Between Warm, Cool, and Neutral Tones
Not all colored lash extensions are created equal—their undertones play a huge role in how they complement a client’s natural features. Warm tones (e.g., red, orange, gold, copper) pair beautifully with clients who have warm skin tones (yellow, golden, or olive undertones) and light to medium hair colors. Cool tones (e.g., blue, purple, silver, emerald) flatter those with cool skin tones (pink, red, or blue undertones) and dark hair. Neutral tones (e.g., brown, black-brown, taupe) are universal and work well for clients who want a subtle color boost without being too bold. Before starting a service, take a moment to assess your client’s skin undertone and natural lash color to recommend shades that enhance their features rather than clash with them.
1.2 Match the Shade to the Occasion & Client Style
1.2.1 Everyday Subtlety vs. Bold Statement Looks
Client intent is key when selecting colored lash shades. For clients seeking an everyday look, opt for soft, muted colors like light brown, chestnut, or dusty rose. These shades add depth to natural lashes without being overly noticeable. For special events (e.g., weddings, festivals, parties), clients may want to go bolder with neon pinks, electric blues, or metallic golds. Discuss the client’s lifestyle and desired vibe upfront to ensure the shade aligns with their needs. For example, a professional client may prefer a subtle taupe mix, while a festival-goer might love a rainbow lash design.
1.2.2 Consider Complementary Colors for Accent Lashes
If a client is hesitant to commit to full-colored lashes, accent lashes are a great compromise. Use complementary colors (e.g., purple with green, blue with orange) sparingly on the outer corners or inner corners of the eyes to create a subtle pop. Complementary colors create visual interest without overwhelming the look, making them perfect for clients who want to dip their toes into colored lashes. Always test a small section first to ensure the client loves the effect before proceeding with the full set.
Tip 2: Choose the Right Lash Extension Type & Thickness
2.1 Opt for High-Quality Colored Filaments
2.1.1 Look for Lightweight, Flexible Materials
Colored lash extensions are typically made from the same materials as black lashes (e.g., mink, synthetic, silk), but not all are created equal. Low-quality colored lashes can be stiff, heavy, or prone to fading, which can irritate the client’s eyes and shorten the lifespan of the set. Invest in high-quality colored filaments that are lightweight, flexible, and fade-resistant. Mink and silk colored lashes offer a natural, soft texture, while synthetic lashes are more durable and affordable—ideal for clients with sensitive eyes or those seeking a long-lasting set.
2.1.2 Avoid Overly Thick Lashes for Colored Sets
Thick lashes can make colored extensions look clumpy and heavy, especially if the client has fine natural lashes. For most colored lash sets, opt for a thickness of 0.15mm to 0.20mm. This ensures the lashes are lightweight enough to sit comfortably on the natural lash without causing damage, while still providing enough color payoff to be visible. For clients with stronger natural lashes, you can go up to 0.25mm for a bolder look, but always prioritize the health of the natural lash.
2.2 Select the Right Curl & Length for Balance
2.2.1 Match the Curl to the Client’s Natural Lash Curl
The curl of the colored lash extension should complement the client’s natural lash curl to ensure a seamless blend. For clients with straight natural lashes, a C-curl or D-curl will add lift and volume. For clients with naturally curly lashes, a B-curl or C-curl will maintain a natural look. Avoid using overly dramatic curls (e.g., DD-curl) with colored lashes, as they can make the look appear too harsh. The goal is to balance the boldness of the color with a curl that enhances the eye shape.
2.2.2 Keep Lengths Natural for Subtle Looks, Bold for Statement Looks
For everyday colored lash sets, keep the length within 1-2mm longer than the client’s natural lashes. This ensures the look is natural and wearable. For bold, statement looks, you can go longer (3-4mm longer than natural), but again, ensure the client’s natural lashes can support the length without breaking. When using multiple colors, vary the lengths slightly to create dimension—for example, use longer lashes in the outer corners with a bold color and shorter lashes in the inner corners with a softer shade.
Tip 3: Perfect Application Techniques for Colored Lashes
3.1 Prep the Natural Lashes Thoroughly
3.1.1 Cleanse and Dry Lashes to Ensure Adhesion
Proper lash prep is even more important for colored lashes, as any oil, dirt, or makeup residue can prevent the adhesive from bonding properly—leading to premature shedding. Start by cleansing the client’s lashes with a gentle, oil-free lash cleanser. Use a microfiber brush to remove any debris, then pat the lashes dry with a lint-free pad. Ensure the lashes are completely dry before applying the adhesive, as moisture can weaken the bond. For clients with oily lids, you can also apply a small amount of lash primer to absorb excess oil and improve adhesion.
3.1.2 Isolate Natural Lashes Carefully
Isolation is crucial for any lash extension set, but it’s especially important for colored lashes—poor isolation can lead to clumping, which will make the colored lashes look messy. Use a fine-tipped isolation tool to separate each natural lash individually. Take your time, as rushing can result in missed lashes or accidental bonding of adjacent lashes. For clients with thick or curly natural lashes, use a lash lift tool to hold the lashes up while you isolate them, making the process easier.
3.2 Apply Adhesive Correctly for Long-Lasting Results
3.2.1 Use a Clear or Tinted Adhesive for Colored Lashes
Black adhesive can show through lighter colored lashes, ruining the clean look of the set. For colored lash extensions, opt for a clear adhesive or a tinted adhesive that matches the lash color (e.g., brown adhesive for brown colored lashes). Clear adhesive is versatile and works with any color, while tinted adhesive provides extra coverage for a seamless finish. Ensure the adhesive is fresh—old or expired adhesive will have a weaker bond and can cause irritation.
3.2.2 Apply the Right Amount of Adhesive
Too much adhesive can cause clumping and weighing down the natural lash, while too little can lead to premature shedding. For colored lashes, apply a small, thin bead of adhesive to the base of the extension. The adhesive should cover the entire base of the extension but not drip or spread onto the client’s skin or natural lash shaft. Hold the extension in place for 2-3 seconds to allow the adhesive to bond before releasing. Work in small sections (e.g., inner corner, middle, outer corner) to ensure accuracy.
Tip 4: Blend Colored Lashes Seamlessly with Natural Lashes or Black Extensions
4.1 Mix Colored Lashes with Black Lashes for Subtle Dimension
4.1.1 Create a Gradient Effect
For clients who want a subtle color boost, mix colored lashes with black lashes to create a gradient effect. Start with black lashes in the inner corner, gradually transitioning to a colored shade (e.g., brown, chestnut) in the middle, and a slightly bolder color (e.g., burgundy, navy) in the outer corner. This creates a soft, natural-looking gradient that enhances the eye shape without being too bold. Use the same curl and thickness for both black and colored lashes to ensure a seamless blend.
4.1.2 Use Colored Lashes as Accents
Another way to blend colored lashes is to use them as accents within a black lash set. For example, add a few purple or pink lashes to the outer corners of a black cat-eye set for a subtle pop of color. This is a great option for clients who want to experiment with color without committing to a full colored set. Ensure the accent lashes are evenly spaced to avoid a patchy look—use a lash map to plan the placement beforehand if needed.
4.2 Match the Density to the Client’s Natural Lash Density
4.2.1 Avoid Over-Densifying Colored Sets
Colored lashes are more visible than black lashes, so over-densifying can make the look appear heavy and unnatural. Match the density of the colored lash set to the client’s natural lash density. For clients with sparse natural lashes, opt for a light to medium density (20-30 lashes per eye). For clients with thick natural lashes, you can go for medium to full density (30-40 lashes per eye). The goal is to enhance the natural lashes, not overpower them with color and volume.
4.2.2 Use a Lash Map to Plan Placement
A lash map is a great tool for ensuring seamless blending and even placement of colored lashes. Before starting the application, draw a lash map on the client’s under-eye pad, marking where you’ll place black lashes, colored lashes, and accent lashes. This helps you stay organized and ensures the final look is balanced. For gradient looks, mark the transition points between colors to avoid harsh lines. You can also use the lash map to show the client the proposed look before starting, ensuring they’re happy with the plan.
Tip 5: Educate Clients on Proper Aftercare for Colored Lash Longevity
5.1 Provide Post-Application Aftercare Instructions
5.1.1 The 24-Hour Rule for Colored Lashes
Just like black lash extensions, colored lashes require a 24-hour waiting period after application to allow the adhesive to fully cure. Advise clients to avoid water, steam, sweat, and makeup during this time. This includes showers, saunas, workouts, and swimming. Water can weaken the adhesive bond, leading to premature shedding of the colored lashes. Remind clients to pat their face dry gently if they do come into contact with water accidentally.
5.1.2 Avoid Oil-Based Products
Oil-based products (e.g., makeup remover, moisturizer, sunscreen) can break down the adhesive and cause the colored lashes to shed. Educate clients on using only oil-free products around the eye area. Recommend a gentle, oil-free lash cleanser for daily cleansing—this helps remove dirt and makeup residue without damaging the lashes. Advise clients to avoid rubbing or pulling on the lashes, as this can damage both the colored extensions and the natural lashes.
5.2 Advise on Regular Maintenance & Touch-Ups
5.2.1 Schedule Touch-Ups Every 2-3 Weeks
Colored lash extensions have the same lifespan as black lashes (2-4 weeks), depending on the client’s natural lash growth cycle and aftercare. Advise clients to schedule touch-up appointments every 2-3 weeks to replace shed lashes and maintain the fullness and color of the set. During touch-ups, you can also adjust the color placement or add new accent colors to refresh the look. Remind clients that skipping touch-ups can lead to a patchy, uneven appearance.
5.2.2 Educate on Safe Removal
Improper removal of colored lash extensions can damage the natural lashes. Advise clients to never pick, pull, or cut the extensions. Instead, recommend a professional removal service using a gentle, oil-based remover (yes, oil-based removers are safe for removal—they break down the adhesive without damaging natural lashes). If a client needs to remove the lashes at home, provide them with a list of safe, oil-free removers and instructions on how to use them properly (e.g., apply the remover to a cotton pad, hold it on the lashes for 5-10 minutes, then gently swipe away the extensions).
Final Thoughts
Working with colored lash extensions is a fun and creative way to expand your lash services and satisfy client demand for unique, personalized looks. By mastering shade selection, choosing the right lash type and thickness, perfecting application techniques, blending seamlessly, and educating clients on aftercare, you can create stunning, long-lasting colored lash sets that keep clients coming back. Remember, practice makes perfect—start with simple looks (e.g., accent lashes, subtle gradients) and work your way up to bold, creative designs as you gain confidence. With these tips in mind, you’ll be a colored lash pro in no time!